The Last Log

Well, perhaps not the last log. The weather has turned fall-like, and the garden sits appropriately full and green and heavy upon the earth. There will still be the harvest to record, and the cooking, the eating, the talking.

In just the way that the fruit of the tomato, or the pepper, or the squash is full of potentiality for human events, the housing at the college waits for the multitude to flood in again. Meanwhile, the dozen or so structures sit mostly empty save for a constellation of house chairs, battening down their domains.

Tomorrow Karina and Emily will be bringing a group of newly-arrived first year students to be in the garden. Today and yesterday were grey, wind-streaked days, almost on the brink of rain.  We hope it will hold out for us to label the garden, put up signs and information cards to help guide people around in their viewing and their harvesting.

But, more on that later. What is the appearance of the garden today? First thing, I rolled a large electrical wire spool (found on campus) to the garden and placed it upright near the entrance. This will serve as our new “welcome” table when it is completed tomorrow. Also, noticed first upon entering the garden this morning that some sunflowers had blown over. Picked those out, trimmed them, and placed them through the hole in the spool as decoration.

Generally, the garden is quite abundant with food. Most tomatillos hang heavy and plump. Some tomatoes have turned red; a half-eaten one sits rotting on the ground by the onions. Corn is quite ripe; some has already been consumed by animals, mammalian or insectile. The lettuce has gone to seed and tastes bitter. All herbs are extremely abundant. Squash explosion. Watermelons are ripe. Pesto should be made of the basil; or the dining hall should serve Phở with it. We will let the fennel go to seed; called saunf, they apparently have a variety of uses in Indian cuisine. Perhaps Carol from Blooming Chefs will want some for her cooking classes.

Pumpkins have formed, small and green. Cauliflower is edible; broccoli is returning after first batch was eaten/sold at campus farmer’s market. Radishes are almost half a foot long, with tasty greens. Yellow wax beans have appeared, a veritable feast.

It will be quite a harvest, I think.

Tomatillo und Basil

Introducing the Watermelon

Madame Pumpkin

Yesterday I encountered a cat. It was nibbling on this tomato.

Marble arch salvia is quite spectacular

Upon entering the garden

Another view

Identity, Community, and Food: A Conversation with Sarah Moses-Winyard (Part II)

This is rest of the conversation I had with Sarah Moses-Winyard on July 4, 2010. Click here to read the first half.

Inside a canned food factory. Engraving by Poyet from Albert Seigneurie's Grocery Encyclopedia, first edition 1898.

Forest: I feel like so much of the challenge we face with reforming the food system has to do with getting people to, if not appreciate, at least think about their food. Would you say that’s something that begins in the community?

Sarah: I guess that would depend on your definition of “community.” I’d say that a community is a group of individuals that are in some way associated or bonded together, right? A community might include friends, family members, neighbors, co-workers, strangers passed on the street… Or, if you are talking about a national or global community, millions of people might be involved. In response to your question, I’d say that thoughts about food, about anything, often are produced in an individual who has been prompted or inspired by a community of some sort, sometimes by multiple communities, at different times or simultaneously and to varying degrees. (There is often overlap between groups’ members.) The home environment probably plays a large role as individuals grow, but awareness of food could start anywhere, at any time, and most likely in many places, at multiple times, through lifetimes. The medium used also differs–television, radio, print, the Internet, word of mouth… I personally think that firsthand experience is crucial, because thought and appreciation of food–of anything–has to come from within. Genuine feelings can’t be forced. I know that I am mostly inspired by those whom I interact with, face-to-face, on a regular basis. Well, these people, and the Internet–that might be a generational thing. The Internet (and other forms of media) makes it easy to be inspired by a community that you aren’t even a part of.

I’m curious where this last question of yours came from. What exactly led you to say that, that “so much of the challenge we face with reforming the food system has to do with getting people to, if not appreciate, at least think about their food”? How has the reading, gardening, and cooking you’ve been doing shaped your opinions on the food system?

F: I have no simple answer to either of your questions. An answer that is appropriately complex lies between the lines of this blog. I’m sorry if that sounds like I’m evading or trying to be cryptic. I can start to reply by saying that advertising — no small force in the crafting of consumption (as in eating and otherwise) patterns both in and outside of the US — should make us pause in considering the true meaning of “freedom.”

F: My next question is, what’s your hope for the Bennington student garden?

S: Well, I haven’t been as involved in the Bennington student garden yet as I’d like to be, so I’m not really sure where the BSFP is headed. I’m also not sure yet how realistic my hopes for the garden are, because I’m fairly new to gardening. But I suppose I would really like the Bennington student garden to be a place where interested individuals can come together in an encouraging environment to further their understanding of how healthy, sustainable gardens are grown and to gain hands-on experience in growing [food] and working together in a community garden setting. It’s assumed that we’ll all graduate in a few years, and many of us will leave the Bennington area in search of a new home. Ideally, we’ll carry our new garden knowledge and our passion for sustainable gardening with us and spread it around in our new communities. I think it’s safe to say that we’d all like to learn as much as we can about being competent gardeners while perhaps incorporating more [organic?] local produce to the dining hall menu. I don’t know, who is going to eat the food produced in the garden? Anyone who is interested? Or is the BSFP directly related to the Dining Hall? Will the produce be passed on to the DH? There probably won’t be enough to feed the entire school, but it might offset some of the food they get elsewhere, from somewhere much farther away.

F: At this point, we don’t know exactly where the food will go. At this point, we can’t tell how much we’ll have. It’s possible a flourish of squash or cucumber might find its way into the dining hall, but right now it’s really just about having something growing. The dining hall and the BSFP are definitely ready to work together, but it will take a lot more talking and thinking.

S: Well, that seems like a sound direction to me. Continuing with my hopes for the garden, I have to admit that gardening does seem to be very trendy these days among young adults. Certainly, that’s good, but I sometimes wonder about people’s motives, whether they join the movement because they believe in it, or because they are jumping on the bandwagon, or because they need some excitement in their lives, etc. I think I am in it for all of those reasons. And I have mixed emotions about that. But I guess everyone involved with the BSFP will benefit and give in his or her own way. I hope, and think, that contact with the garden will impact each of us positively. I also wonder what the extent of the student garden’s impact will be. I understand that “student garden” implies a garden for students, and I love that idea, but I am personally really interested right now in working with the greater Bennington community, with people who may not have a space of their own in which to grow food, or may not even have exposure to gardening or organic produce. Like, is there a community garden in North Bennington or the town of Bennington? Do we have enough room on campus to let people in town come and garden with us? I think that would potentially be really cool for building new relationships with the surrounding towns.

F: There’s a community garden in North Bennington, next to Highland Hall’s Victorian Garden. Certainly, there is enough room for more people to garden on campus; though for getting help on the student garden, seeking out student volunteers would probably be more advisable. These will be important questions for everyone in the BSFP to consider.

F: Let’s go back to your upbringing. Could you talk about one memorable tradition or moment from the food culture that you grew up in?

Latkes

S: I’m an American, but I have Jewish and Chinese ancestors, so I was raised with a blend of American, Jewish, and Chinese cultures, and food seems important to all of these groups. (I don’t know of any ethnicity that doesn’t value food.) Latkes at Hannukah are something I look forward to, and there are a couple Chinese restaurants that my parents have gone to for years, so some of the waitresses know us and greet us when we go in. Personally, though, these are not as important to me as the family dinners my parents and I attend at our close friends’ home. We’ve been doing these dinners for several years now, and cooking and eating with them are what I missed most about my hometown during my first year of college. I think the family dinners mean more to me than the specific cultural traditions because I don’t feel comfortable choosing one label, saying “I am Jewish,” or “Chinese,” or “American.” Eating with one’s family, and also gardening, are things that are universal, very grounded (literally, with the gardening), and I think this also comforts me.

F: So here’s something I’ve been asking a lot recently, and I know you’ve already answered it in some ways, but what do you think of when you think of “good food”?

S: Lately, I think, “beets, kale, radishes, chard, broccoli leaves, and garlic. Also, goat cheese.” To me, “good food” is food that tastes good. For reasons unbeknown to me, I grew up liking “healthy” food, food that came fresh from gardens and included lots of vegetables and fruits. Often these foods are very colorful and flavorful, though simple, and often, community is strongly connected to consumption. So not only is the taste of good food pleasurable, but it looks good and feels hearty. The ingredients feel firm but ripe in their original form, and they smell like you’d expect them to smell. There is also an emotional satisfaction that comes from being a part of the food system. If you know where your food came from, you feel more connected to it. If you or someone you care about helped grow it, gather it, prepare it, cook it, you see and sense all of that when you eat. You know the work and love involved. It’s very empowering, and also awe-some, thinking that the food you are about to eat started out so small, yet flourished through hard work and the grace of nature. I believe that the experiences people have through farming, sharing their harvests, and cooking are very good for building strong, positive communities. That’s why I prefer small markets and grocery stores (and, even more-so, individual exchanges between friends who farm and garden) to large ones. Obviously, community is important to me, and good food is a definite part of that.

F: I’m so glad we could talk today; thank you so much Sarah. And enjoy the rest of your Independence Day.

S: Thanks! You too.

Giuseppe Arcimboldo: The Greengrocer

Giuseppe Arcimboldo (1527-93), Portrait with Vegetables (The Greengrocer).

via Wikipedia:

Giuseppe Arcimboldo (also spelled Arcimboldi) (1527 – July 11, 1593) was an Italian painter best known for creating imaginative portrait heads made entirely of such objects as fruits, vegetables, flowers, fish, and books — that is, he painted representations of these objects on the canvas arranged in such a way that the whole collection of objects formed a recognizable likeness of the portrait subject.

Identity, Community, and Food: A Conversation with Sarah Moses-Winyard (Part I)

One sweltering day earlier in the summer, Emi and I dropped into Powers Market in North Bennington. We were talking about our work together, and the blog came up. I said:

Originally, I envisioned the blog as a potluck of sorts. Rather than cooking and setting a whole meal as one person, I wanted to invite other people’s expressions and expertise. Some people might bring luscious home-made potato salad, others petite and exquisite canapés. People’s tastes are different and they will prefer different things. I wanted to bring in other voices to encourage this diversity.

Toward that end, I have interviewed several Bennington students this summer about their thoughts on food, community, and sustainability. This is the last one I will be posting before the garden internship officially ends on August 20th.

Sarah Moses-Winyard is a friend of mine, and also a fellow class of 2013-er at Bennington. Spring term, she mentioned to me that she would be working in a garden this summer. I asked her if she would like to talk about it for the blog, and she agreed. I caught up with her this Fourth of July via instant messenger. Further contemplation led to this edited interview. It will be presented in two parts, with Part 1 today and Part 2 on Friday.

"This photo was taken on July 4th, 2008, on Lopez Island, WA. The image exemplifies the agricultural ties that many year-round residents on Lopez have to the land. July is haying season." --S. M-W

Forest: It’s the warmest day of the summer so far. I feel like we are reaching the doldrum days.

Sarah: I see that in my future. I saw a newspaper headline yesterday that read something along the lines of, “Summer reaching Skagit Valley-Finally.” We have Indian summers here.

F: Do you think we could talk a little bit about where you are?

S: Sure! I’m in Anacortes right now, on Fidalgo Island. Anacortes is sometimes called “the gateway to the San Juans.” The San Juan Islands are a group of islands in Puget Sound, in the top left-hand corner of Washington state (supposing you are a looking at a map). The garden I work in is on Lopez Island, one of the San Juans. Lopez is a 40-minute ferry ride from Anacortes, and Anacortes is two hours north (driving) of Seattle and about two hours south of Canada.

F: What kind of garden do you work on?

S: I work on a farm, a piece of land that is owned by a couple on the island and is currently being used communally by several different couples. My employer has planted several rows of flowers and vegetables, and I help tend these. Her family and a few other employees operate a protein farm (Jones Family Farms), meaning that they raise cattle, pigs, goats, and shellfish in various places on the island, and sell the meat locally. The farming I am doing is for personal enjoyment; we eat the produce and display the flowers in the adjacent farmstand, where shellfish, pork, beef, and other products are sold.

F: How did you draw yourself into all of this? Or what drew you?

S: Well, I read in a book (Mountains Beyond Mountains–a must-read) that we try to make our lives sound as though they are logical and linear, as though one specific thing always leads to another, when in actuality, so many details place us in our current positions. I really agree with this. But I guess to start out with, plants have always been important to me. I wasn’t conscious of this until my senior year of high school, when I was doing a lot of thinking about what type of person I was and where I wanted to attend college. Before I came to Bennington, I thought I might “major” in ethnobotany, a fusion of biology and anthropology. I’d never really considered myself to be a “science person,” but I love being able to identify the plants around me, and I also like knowing how plants are used. Familiarity with one’s surroundings is comforting; it leads to a sense of community. Since attending Bennington, I’ve realized that community is really what I want to study. Just being around edible plants was one way that I feel connected to others, because food brings people together in so many ways. Also, I’ve discovered that being active is important to me, and gardening is very physical. And then, there’s also my belief that organic vegetables are delicious. My mom had a crafter’s booth at the local farmer’s market when I was small, and I’ve made visits to the farmer’s market a priority in my life on and off over the years, so I’ve been around fresh produce a long time; I’d been looking for a way to get more hands-on with this. In fact, I seriously considered taking a gap year to WWOOF before going to Bennington. (I didn’t, mainly because I felt that FWTs would give me similar opportunities.)

F: So here’s a question to pick us up on the idea of food and community, or maybe the meaning of life. Cicero suggested about two thousand years ago that people should “eat to live, not live to eat.” What do you say?

S: I think that statement is valid, but so is its opposite. They go together. Many things in life are worth doing, and people need energy to do those things. At the same time, food is an important part of culture, and I see no reason to eat food that is less than delicious and healthy if that option is available to you. Of course, you are probably finding that a response to Cicero’s suggestion differs somewhat, depending on who you ask. Some people aren’t that into food, and some people are. I definitely appreciate food.

Click here after Friday, August 20 to read the rest of our conversation.

Saturday Poem

Making Cider
by Vita Sackville-West

I saw within the wheelwright’s shed
The big round cartwheels, blue and red;
A plough with blunted share;
A blue tin jug; a broken chair;
And paint in trial patchwork square
Slapping up against the wall;
The lumber of the wheelwright’s trade,
And tools on benches neatly laid,
The brace, the adze, the awl;

And framed within the latticed-panes,
Above the cluttered sill,
Saw rooks upon the stubble hill
Seeking forgotten grains;

And all the air was sweet and shrill
With juice of apples heaped in skips,
Fermenting, rotten, soft and bruise,
And all the yard was strewn with pips,
Discarded pulp, and wrung-out ooze
That ducks with rummaging flat bill
Searched through beside the cider-press
To gobble in their greediness.

The young men strained upon the crank
To wring the last reluctant inch.
They laughed together, fair and frank,
And threw their loins across the winch.

A holiday from field and dung,
From plough and harrow, scythe and spade,
To dabble in another trade,
The crush the pippins in the slats,
And see that in the little vats
An extra pint was wring;
While round about the worthies stood
Profuse in comment, praise or blame,
Content the press should be of wood,
Advising rum, decrying wheat,
And black strong sugar makes it sweet,
But still resolved, with maundering tongue,
That cider could not be the same
As once when they were young;
But still the young contemptuous men
Laughed kindly at their old conceit,
And strained upon the crank again.

Now barrels ranged in portly line
Mature through winter’s sleep,
Aping the leisured sloths of wine
That dreams of Tiber or the Rhine,
Mellowing slow and deep;
But keen and cold the northern nights
Sharpen the quiet yard.
And sharp like no rich southern wine
The tang of cider bites;
For here the splintered stars and hard
Hold England in a frosty guard.
Orion and Pleiades
Above the wheelwright’s shed.
And Sirius resting on the trees
While all the village snores abed.

Voices from the Bennington Sustainable Food Project: Amelia Vottero

Van Gogh. A Road in Auvers after the Rain. 1890. The Pushkin Museum of Fine Art, Moscow, Russia.

After working on an organic farm, Amelia Vottero decided to make food the topic of her formal study at Bennington College. We met last term through the first tilling of the student garden. A couple weeks ago, I had the chance to ask some questions about her Plan, food blog, and more.

You say that your Plan is about food. How do you approach this?

I have always been [interested] in cooking and food but I knew that I never wanted to be a chef. During the spring of my freshman year, I took a class about the history of food. We followed history, through food, and it introduced me to the academic side of the culinary world. It is still my favorite class that I’ve taken at Bennington. At the end of that semester, my friends and I were discussing the next year and Plans and everything and I was kind of joking around that I should just study food, as it seemed I was already taking so many classes that seemed to revolve around food (the history class, ceramics, agriculture classes with Valerie.) Then during the summer, I realized that I did actually want to pursue this idea and I actually sat down and wrote my Plan essay in the middle of summer. I had spent the summer working on an organic farm and, seeing as I was paid in produce, I ended up doing a lot of cooking and reading about and experimenting with food. It became very apparent to me that this was what I should study.

I am studying food through culture, to put it most simply. My Plan title is “Food: Literature, Cultural Studies and Agriculture,” though I feel ‘literature’ should probably be changed to ‘writing.’ It is really surprising how many food-centric classes I have been able to take here, history, philosophy, environmental studies, visual arts. I honestly feel that, due to the fact that I can study this topic in so many different disciplines here, Bennington is the perfect place to study food. I can approach the topic from all angles.

Why did you start writing your food blog, Edith Pilaf?

I actually started [the] blog over FWT to document weekly dinner parties that my brother and I were throwing at his Brooklyn apartment. During my Plan meeting in the fall, my committee has been really enthusiastic about my Plan. Not only were they giving me helpful advice on how to fully study food at Bennington, they provided me with a lot of ideas of how to further my interest outside of the offered curriculum. Since my Plan is rather unique and does not truly fit into a specific discipline that Bennington offers, it really requires that I follow my interest wherever I can. One of the suggestions was to start a blog. When we returned to school, I was in a group tutorial led by Valerie and I was able to turn my blog into a semester long project. The current title, format, etc. of Edith Pilaf came out of that class.

Thoughts on gardening and agriculture?

Without even touching on the health aspects of fresh and sustainably raised food, I like having a connection to the food that I am eating or preparing. Whether I grew the vegetables or know the farm where the meat was raised, it is important for me to know about my food. There is just a different kind of satisfaction you get when you eat a tomato that you grew as opposed to one from the supermarket.

What is “good food” to you?

Good food is fresh, but most importantly, I feel that good food involves care. That sounds kind of sappy now that I say it, but I really believe it. And by that I do not necessarily mean care for the ingredients, but care for the outcome and care for the people that you are feeding. I hate eating alone and I hate preparing food just for myself. It has to be for other people. I was reading this zine the other day called “Put An Egg on It” and there was an article by someone who described this desire to cook for others: “To share one’s food is the most primal act of love. It says to the other person, ‘I want you to live. I am willing to do this work and to create this art that you will destroy in the pleasure of consuming it.” I supposed that could sum up my philosophy on food and eating: it is all about who I am sharing it with.

Eating The Work

Tuesday's Harvest (counterclockwise: sunburst squash, corn, cucumbers, red onion, dill, yellow wax beans)

The last week has been full of activity and edibles, two things that have always gone well together for as long as life has existed. Those of you following the twitter feed might have noticed the frenzy of weeding, mulching, and clover-covering that has been taking place since Saturday. Finally, with the seeds of our favorite legume sown all over the parts of the garden not occupied by crop plants, we can take a break from tedium to enjoy reflecting upon all that has been done — whilst a green cover of nitrogen-fixing, soil-structure-improving, weed-stopping wonder grows before our eyes.

This week I mulched around all of the herbs, tomatoes, tomatillos, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, beans, lettuce, beets, and radishes.

All of the work this week was capped off byclover-laying. We sprinkled seeds all over all of the unmulched and unplanted areas, including the walkways.

In addition to the corn, squashes and onions, many of the other characters in this drama of the soil have been ready to meet their consummate end. This includes the lettuce, beets, yellow wax beans, cucumbers, broccoli, and all of the herbs. Both of the Japanese herbs  (shiso and mitsuba) that I advocated to be part of the garden are flourishing, as well as all the varieties of basil given to us by High Mowing. Dill is called a weed for a reason; I think we should make arrangements to dry out a large portion of it.

Sunflowers POV on the Garden

Of course, I have been cooking from the garden myself. On Tuesday I used a red onion, dill, a cucumber, and other ingredients from different sources to make a meal for seven. I sought to re-create a pasta dish I ate when I visited Beijing. Served at Uyghur restaurants for about 70 cents a bowl,  it consists of thick wheat noodles in a tomato-and-turmeric based sauce. Mine also had a bit of our zucchini. To go with this, a sauce of yogurt with thinly sliced cucumbers and dill.

These noodles were called "Xin Jiang Ban Mian"

This evening I made a dinner of red miso soup with cubes of daikon and chopped mitsuba, rice, broiled corn-on-the-cob with shiso-miso topping (rather than butter), stir-fried string beans with garlic, and kimchi. Every vegetable but the kimchi and the garlic in this meal came from the garden.

Today's Harvest (counterclockwise: acorn squash, corn, mitsuba, daikon radish, broccoli, cucumber, shiso, scallion, yellow wax beans, beets, shiso)

Shiso is a savory mint relative that tastes great sautéed, mixed with miso, and spread on caramelized broiled corn.

Plants that are not quite ready to eat include the cauliflower, the four watermelon plants, pumpkins, sunflowers, eggplants, cabbages, okra, and peppers. The watermelon closer to the broccoli will be ready in a couple weeks; right now it is about pear-sized. Pumpkins just blossomed. Okra, there is a single lady-finger popping out of one plant. Cabbages are developing fast. Part of the young Chinese cabbage could probably be lightly sautéed or tossed into a salad.

Introducing the Watermelon Mini

A few plants are already going to seed. These are the cilantro, the mitsuba, and the dill. A plan for seed saving will have to be drawn up, and soon, as more and more plants begin to produce seeds.

Flower and Herb Arrangement at the entrance to the garden

Images From Saturday’s Garden Party

Photo by Emi

Lunch behind the Stickey Observatory: baguettes, local chevre, apples from the campus apple trees, pakori made from Melissa's zucchini, and chocolate zucchini cake

This is the garden on July 20, the day after I returned from New York

This is the garden at the end of the day yesterday, Saturday, July 31.

Mulch Pile

Today on my way to the garden I noticed this pile of mulch in the middle of a field. It’s made of dead leaves, twigs and pine needles. How strange and fortuitous.

Clover Undersowing This Wednesday

Clover undersowing test: right side with clover, left side without. We had originally planned to sow the clover on Saturday, July 10. However, the required weeding was not done in time. Better late than never.

Hello,

Come to the student garden this Wednesday (the 4th) at 6:30 PM to help undersow clover seeds. In two weeks, these will grow out into a bright green “carpet” that, in addition to being nice to sit on, will add nitrogen to the soil and keep weeds down.

There will also be a group of people from Six Bank Street helping us.

Additionally, if you’re interested in doing some of the mulching or weeding that needs to be completed before the sowing, come by the garden between 8 AM and 2 PM tomorrow (Monday) or Tuesday.

Best,

Forest

http://benningtongarden.wordpress.com